Blower pulley register help (1 Viewer)
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Terry
Nitro Member
Paul,
Don't know if this will be of any help, but my Callies Magnum crank came cut with two keyways, one slightly larger than the standard one. I called Callies and asked them about it and they told me the thinner keyway is the one to use in standard normally aspirated situation. The thick keyway is there so you can use two keys for the blower pulley which, like your picture, has two keyways also for added strength. I don't know if it will be a problem is the key is too small for the keyway, but I suspect even if the bolt holes line up, without the proper sized key in the keyway, the pulley will eventually loosen up. Not much help, I know, but just thought I'd pass that along.
Don't know if this will be of any help, but my Callies Magnum crank came cut with two keyways, one slightly larger than the standard one. I called Callies and asked them about it and they told me the thinner keyway is the one to use in standard normally aspirated situation. The thick keyway is there so you can use two keys for the blower pulley which, like your picture, has two keyways also for added strength. I don't know if it will be a problem is the key is too small for the keyway, but I suspect even if the bolt holes line up, without the proper sized key in the keyway, the pulley will eventually loosen up. Not much help, I know, but just thought I'd pass that along.
.
Nitro Member
I really like those callies cranks, if anything, I am going to machine the smaller keyway to the larger size on both the snout and hub.
I want to get a callies crank but with BBC snout. It is alot of $$$!!!!
The hub I have now, is for SBC snouts.
But really, my question is about that raised lip on the hub there. The hole on the pulley is larger
^ those are examples.
I want to get a callies crank but with BBC snout. It is alot of $$$!!!!
The hub I have now, is for SBC snouts.
But really, my question is about that raised lip on the hub there. The hole on the pulley is larger
^ those are examples.
Terry
Nitro Member
Hi Paul,
Duh! Kinda missed the point didn't I? Sorry about that. Yeah, the Callies cranks are nice pieces and really durable. Now I see what you mean about the lip register. Once again, I'm just guessin' but I'm guessin' that it would be really tough to keep the pulley concentric with the hub without the proper fit with the register. Could you maybe have a "spacer" of some type machined to slip over the register on the hub to take up the excess space so the pulley would be positively located on it to help with concentricity? Best of luck and hope you get it solved. Let me know when you do
Duh! Kinda missed the point didn't I? Sorry about that. Yeah, the Callies cranks are nice pieces and really durable. Now I see what you mean about the lip register. Once again, I'm just guessin' but I'm guessin' that it would be really tough to keep the pulley concentric with the hub without the proper fit with the register. Could you maybe have a "spacer" of some type machined to slip over the register on the hub to take up the excess space so the pulley would be positively located on it to help with concentricity? Best of luck and hope you get it solved. Let me know when you do
Nitrohaulic
Nitro Member
I've never heard anyone say they have to be a close fit. My RCD catalog says all their pulleys are a 2" hole.
I am interested in the answers you get as I'm just getting started in the engineering of the blower drive for my own BBC. I've got a 6-71 going onto a BDS manifold that's been opened up so much that a plate has to be used, but I was going to use one to move the blower back anyways as it sits Gawd-awful to the front if I don't. Going to center the blower with a 1" plate and use the opportunity to have a small delta opening in the center of the intake to solve the blower pushing the air to the front of the manifold problem as the pros do.
I've got a friend suggesting that I use the same center flange crank pulley as he's got on his hemi to take stress off of it, but I've got to see what gear drive I end up using and how much room there is. Then I can play with snout lengths and set-back. Someone told me a long time ago that there's more money in the drive on the front of the engine than there is in the blower (okay, this was over 20 years ago before the monster blowers they have now), and I'm seeing that.
I am interested in the answers you get as I'm just getting started in the engineering of the blower drive for my own BBC. I've got a 6-71 going onto a BDS manifold that's been opened up so much that a plate has to be used, but I was going to use one to move the blower back anyways as it sits Gawd-awful to the front if I don't. Going to center the blower with a 1" plate and use the opportunity to have a small delta opening in the center of the intake to solve the blower pushing the air to the front of the manifold problem as the pros do.
I've got a friend suggesting that I use the same center flange crank pulley as he's got on his hemi to take stress off of it, but I've got to see what gear drive I end up using and how much room there is. Then I can play with snout lengths and set-back. Someone told me a long time ago that there's more money in the drive on the front of the engine than there is in the blower (okay, this was over 20 years ago before the monster blowers they have now), and I'm seeing that.
RAPID
Nitro Member
Hi Paul,
Yes you need to have an aluminum ring machined so that you have a nice tight fit. Just a ring with a male and an female side with the different diameters and the bolt holes in the correct location. Any machine shop can do one for you. Don't forget to make sure all the pulleys and idler line up after making this adapter. You may need to make a spacer for the top pulley as well.
Good Luck,
Rapid
Yes you need to have an aluminum ring machined so that you have a nice tight fit. Just a ring with a male and an female side with the different diameters and the bolt holes in the correct location. Any machine shop can do one for you. Don't forget to make sure all the pulleys and idler line up after making this adapter. You may need to make a spacer for the top pulley as well.
Good Luck,
Rapid
Ronny Robinson
Nitro Member
I'm thinking you can make a ring the same thickness forward to back as the register on the crank hub itself and make the inside diameter .002-.003" smaller and press fit onto the hub, making sure that it is flush with the front of the hub so that the crank bolt is not making contact with the spacer first.
This is considering that your front to rear pulley spacing is already correct, if not then what Rapid suggested will work just fine, just a little more machine work is all. JR at RBS Superchargers (WWW.RBSSuperchargers.com) has a full line of spacer and bolt kits if you wind up with mismatch on your pulley spacing, and a great guy to work with to boot. Whatever you do though, you definitely need to keep your pulleys centered as closely as possible, in most cases, the bolt holes have too much tolerance to keep the belt tension consistent.
This is considering that your front to rear pulley spacing is already correct, if not then what Rapid suggested will work just fine, just a little more machine work is all. JR at RBS Superchargers (WWW.RBSSuperchargers.com) has a full line of spacer and bolt kits if you wind up with mismatch on your pulley spacing, and a great guy to work with to boot. Whatever you do though, you definitely need to keep your pulleys centered as closely as possible, in most cases, the bolt holes have too much tolerance to keep the belt tension consistent.
Nitrohaulic
Nitro Member
Well, I'm glad this thread was started, then. My project consists of good used parts wherever I can apply them, and if I'd ended up with different diameters I probably would have just used them. Glad someone thought to ask! 
Nitrohaulic
Nitro Member
The body is the 80 Omni that's in my avatar (scanned from an old handout), which was campaigned by a friend of mine, Gary Litton, under the Tennessee Shaker name as a match race and IHRA nitro funny car. I've had the body for 20 years and am now restoring it along with a chassis that I acquired earlier this year. While I want to move up to some sort of cross bolted block ASAP, I'm starting out with a 6-71 blown Rodeck on nitro mated to a two speed Lencodrive. I can't go into all the details, but it's all related to an arrangement that's been made to put on shows with at least one other car, which is a blown nitro FED.
Terry
Nitro Member
Ron,
THAT sounds most interesting! As I said, I'm blower illiterate, but I have several friends that are in to Mini-Rod tractor pulling and the Rodeck is the weapon of choice there. A lot of them use crowerglide clutches and one speed lencos also. Most everyone went from 6-71 to 8-71s a few years ago, so there's a lot of good 6-71 parts laying around up in the hills in north central Nebraska. If you've seen a mini-rod tractor pull, you'd have to say that there's something wrong with those guys! All that power and that little bitty short wheelbase "tractor". Can't wait to hear progress reports on the Omni. Any appearances planned up toward the central US?
THAT sounds most interesting! As I said, I'm blower illiterate, but I have several friends that are in to Mini-Rod tractor pulling and the Rodeck is the weapon of choice there. A lot of them use crowerglide clutches and one speed lencos also. Most everyone went from 6-71 to 8-71s a few years ago, so there's a lot of good 6-71 parts laying around up in the hills in north central Nebraska. If you've seen a mini-rod tractor pull, you'd have to say that there's something wrong with those guys! All that power and that little bitty short wheelbase "tractor". Can't wait to hear progress reports on the Omni. Any appearances planned up toward the central US?
Nitrohaulic
Nitro Member
The deal we've got worked out will have us in the Southeast for a while, but it is something that we have great hopes for growth in. It's a concept that we love and it makes more sense to us than anything we've ever looked at. Once some things are protected and we've started I won't mind sharing more.
Yeah, I've got some pulling parts sites listed on my favorites. I just watched two pairs of Rodeck valve covers (which would look sweet on this) go by recently on ebay that came off of pullers when I just didn't have the money. Of course, now they're nowhere.
I am going to tape over and preserve one of the decals on the body. It is of a connecting rod, with "Waterman Racing Components" around the big end. When's the last time anyone heard of Waterman aluminum rods?
Yeah, I've got some pulling parts sites listed on my favorites. I just watched two pairs of Rodeck valve covers (which would look sweet on this) go by recently on ebay that came off of pullers when I just didn't have the money. Of course, now they're nowhere.
I am going to tape over and preserve one of the decals on the body. It is of a connecting rod, with "Waterman Racing Components" around the big end. When's the last time anyone heard of Waterman aluminum rods?
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