Nitromater
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What's benefit of the new 6 Disc vs. 5 disc clutch and who uses it?
- Thread starter Rat
- Start date
Nitrohelper
Nitro Member
New ? ?
More like ten years ago, the rear main problem, and the floaters have to be thin to fit in the can ,so they tend to warp...
Jerry you know as well as I do 3 years ago.....10 years ago start to sound the same after awhile...
Nitrohelper
Nitro Member
You've got that right ,especially when guys get older...
For sure it was back in the good old days of 1320' and pure Nitro...
Topfuel386
Nitro Member
Pretty sure Conrad throws one in once in a while.
Would it be to run faster or have better traction
Treeshaker
Nitro Member
Neither, the use of a 6 disc clutch was to provide more surface area and dissipate the heat better, especially when driving through the clutch on a loose track. I do not think anyone is using them anymore as they have found the same results can be had by running thicker floaters. Some teams run floaters up to .500" thick, but .350" to 400" is the norm.
Room, weight nor rear main wear was an issue. You run a 9.4" can with a .250" spacer between the motor plate and can. The clutches today weigh about the same with the thick floaters. Rear main wear was a simple solution, add pads to the back of the flywheel and set them with .010" to .015" clearance and balance the finger weight on your clutch by moving lock up levers from one side to another. If the problem persists, you have a block, crank or oil problem.
T.Smith
Nitro Member
Thank you Virgil, you are way more a patience man than I am.
Treeshaker
Nitro Member
Tony, I learned to be patient from you.
Bross Hawg
Nitro Member
Virgil,
have you guys run the 6 disc setup? Just curious. When we were trying it on JFR cars back in 05/06, we had to shim our carbides on the flywheel, but if I set them that tight we had a horrible vibration. Best we could figure was the carbides were "bouncing" over the support ribs on the back of the block behind the motor plate. I ran mine about .030". No looser than .050". They also started coating the motor plates to keep the wear down from the carbides. I was replacing the motor plate quite ofter before that.
have you guys run the 6 disc setup? Just curious. When we were trying it on JFR cars back in 05/06, we had to shim our carbides on the flywheel, but if I set them that tight we had a horrible vibration. Best we could figure was the carbides were "bouncing" over the support ribs on the back of the block behind the motor plate. I ran mine about .030". No looser than .050". They also started coating the motor plates to keep the wear down from the carbides. I was replacing the motor plate quite ofter before that.
Treeshaker
Nitro Member
Yes we ran them in both cars for a while. Didn't see a drop off or gain in performance, so feeling less parts are better, we went back to the five disc.
The problems you encountered are common when using carbide. To me, carbide is too hard and doesn't absorb any shock. I used everything from brass to heat treated H-13 and S-7, with the best results from the H-13 steel at a 48 - 50 RC hardness.
In a flexible, or loose chassis such as the JFR cars in FC, or a Hadman car in dragster, there was a lot of movement in the motor plate area. It would cause flexing of the motor plate between the bottom of the block and the bottom mounting bolts/tabs. The top saddles would have a lot of movement and this is why you needed to run additional clearance with your wear blocks.
Bross Hawg
Nitro Member
Yea, the carbides cut a groove into the motor plate. I always ran a ring of anti-sieze around the wear area, but there is alot of load on that. They went to a harder motor plate and it had a coating ( I don't remember what it was, but they were black) that helped a lot.
