Pro Comp Altered - Chassis Questions

[Sherman, Sherm, & Sherm Gun]

I'm looking to build a nostalgia altered to run NPCA and NHRA Heritage/Goodguys races. I'm wanting to build it old school type with a 7.50 spec (10.3) mild steel chassis, and we'll be running an injected alky BBC, a powerglide, and a 9" rear. My question is about suspension. I'd like to keep it as 'period correct' as I can. I'm not sure about front and/or rear suspension. I have a feeling that front leaf spring and rear coilovers will be pretty scary! So, does anyone have ideas on a set-up?

This is what I'm after, but with a updated cage.

Pictures from Awful Awful Fuel Altereds!

 

[Draw 3D]

I'm planning on running the Heritage series and my chassis is from 80's and is torsion-bar front suspension, solid-mounted rear end.

I wouldn't run the front leaf-spring setup, you want a chassis that is consistent and runs as straight as possible.

Also, I would not go with the mild-steel, if you ever want to step up, you won't be able to.

 

[Sherman, Sherm, & Sherm Gun]

I wasn't wanting to go any faster with this car, it would be a 'group effort' partnership car. If I did, I'd go with a chrome moly F/C chassis with a Fiat or F/C body and with all my own parts. This would be just a 'play toy' for now. It may never leave the state and only run at the local non-sancationed 1/8 mile track, but I'd like to go out-of-state with it. I thought that a mild steel car would be cheap and easy to build.

 

[Solid Rock]

I have to agree with what Paul said. The mild steel may be cheaper to build, but there will be very little resale value with it.
I would go with the solid suspension all around. If you want front suspension, the torsion bar is the best way to go, but I would for sure stick with solid in the rear. It's just one less variable to deal with and less parts to give you trouble.
Good Luck.

 

[Sherman, Sherm, & Sherm Gun]

Wouldn't the rectangle lower frame rail limit me to the 10.3 spec anyway? I haven't looked at the specs for 10.2, but I'm sure that you would have to run an all round tube chassis with that.

 

[Draw 3D]

Hadn't realized that you were going to use rectangular tubing.

I don't know if you ever built a chassis before, but it takes a lot of time and various skills. Plus, drive-train to rear-end alignment is crucial as is the entire drive-train being square to the chassis or else you will be "drifting" all over the place and have a very inconsistent car so it needs to done on a very accurate chassis jig.

I would recommend buying a used chassis, wish I would have done that myself. You can pick one up at a decent price, just do a lot searching for the chassis history and have checked out by a professional chassis shop.

 

[Sherman, Sherm, & Sherm Gun]

There is two altereds sitting here in town. Either one os the guys want to sell them, basically because they don't have to. The first one is the car that I ran before. It's a 1982 McKinney rigid funny car chassis.

The second is like what I was wanting to build. I've been friends with both guys for years and used to going racing with them when I was younger. They are retirement age, and have the aditude 'It's paid for and I have no need to sell it!'

My dad built an alignment jig for the McKinney chassis years ago. So I probably could copy that car.

 

[Sherman, Sherm, & Sherm Gun]

I'm planning on running the
Also, I would not go with the mild-steel, if you ever want to step up, you won't be able to.

NHRA's highest class is Nostalgia Eliminator which is a 7.60 index class and I would also run NPCA's Pro Comp 2. The only 'step-up' there would be NPCA's Pro Comp which is a 7.0 index. But I understand what you guys are says. I was just trying to cut a few corners and work with what I have and can easily get my hands on. I do know a few killer TIG welders that could help me out, and a nice TIG at work. Thank you